Sunday, August 30, 2015

Saturday 7

Thunder's solid 3ft from SW and some barrels as well as 4ft or over head sets.
almost no wind

As we got up and started motoring further south you could tell it was going to be a nice day. It was phenomenal motoring down the southern isles as there seems to be some little isolated islands. We could also see a boat docked at a huge left called Greenbush...known for its fast spinning barrels. We continued on and pulled in just around the point from Greenbush to a beautiful spot called Roxy's nice small little bay that will pick up a swell from from several directions...the water was glass here and somehow protected from the wind and white caps that existed just a few hundred yards out and open sea.  Also a cool little village there called Mala Kopa.  We continued on south and enjoyed what was left as we passed the two small islands that contain Rags Left and Right on either side of each.

Finally we arrived at beautiful thunders and only one other boat there...perfect! The left was slow bowling but then seemed to pick up...the tide may have had something to do with this...regardless we enjoyed lunch and watching from our perfect top deck boat amphitheater. 

All enjoying a break and needing some shoulder/back rest from heavy paddling... Mike, Simon, Dom and I got on a dingy and motored over to the neighboring beachhead of the island looking for some adventure and a swim.  Beautiful sun, weather and water conditions provided for a good swim and some on island exploration. Frankie our boat hand brought along some drinks to give to the local king or head resident of the island...he was doing some work on some wooden poles used to prop up some hides or something else with coconuts...i didn't really understand the setup and was distracted by the wild dog pups he had onsite...i guess he is a defacto local pet store the way i understood it....but looked like food was scarce and these 5-7 pups probably had to fend for themselves.  Regardless i got off some good pictures and one in particular that might make a good wall hanger.  It was also fun getting on land for the first time in a week!!  Frankie told us that the 2010 tsunami hit this island pretty hard as well and because of it there weren't many villagers left or still on the island. it certainly was hard to tell as the underbrush was really thick and not really able to see any significant distances.  We took off after our walk and headed back to the boat...sunset, dinner and kangaroo court.     Since it was Saturday night there more booze flowing than normal and even John (usually in bed at 8 first in the water) was up for a drinking game. Wiz, bang, bounce. AJ also seemed a bit more tuned up than usual but all had fun and got to bed a little later than usual.

Puss Boots dick of the day: AJ for catching 3 waves in a row from outside position in and snaking the last one as he moved down the line.  There were some Aussies in the lineup that didn't care for that and let Pauly near by know...so paul to the story and it was the winner.

wipeout of the day: Dom for decent fall off a slow drop inn ay thunders but more about the tomb stoning on his board where it floats above you in the white water like a tomb stone of a grave as you get spin cycled below it.

Graham got wave of the day for a great backside left at thunders that afternoon. big set wave and a couple good slashes of the top.

Last note...Dom had to shotgun 2 extra beers for his poor performance on the award shots ceremony for the above accomplishments...1st  (improper opening causing the beer to spew half its contents out all over his face chest neck and ears!) the he simple just killed /chugged the next beer hoping for leniency  but got none from judge Hobby so he had to prove he could properly shotgun a beer ...and thus a third beer was presented and chugged.

He was a bit glassy eyed but pulled through in true POME ( prisoner of mother england) form!!! good stuff.

Friday, August 28, 2015

Friday 6th day

Friday 6

Swell considerably less power full still holding in 2-3ft range. wind side to onshore from south/west
Spent all day at Maca's

Awoke around 4 or 430 to rumbling engines as we were out of dock early to make what was sure to be crowded Macaronis or Maca's.  there are only so many boats allowed there and the local constable surf police enforce the laws there laid down by Indonesia government. Buy its well known that the local resort there Macaronis has invested a lot of money and has lobbied the government to try and control boat traffic at the spot...because it is such a popular break and does well in all conditions medium swell to small.  There's the conundrum...the mentawai's surf industry and taxes/monies that flow from it come from boat traffic...and lots of it.  There aren't that many resorts...and the few around are really hard travel for the average non savvy tourist. Since the 2010 Tsunami that destroyed the resort and the ensuing rebuild investment...the local laws have tried to limit 2 boats a day hooking up there...but with well respected captains and surf guides like ours...who do things right and have respect....they always seem to get a spot...and we did!!!   I was in the water at day break and enjoyed a few great chest to head high waves before the crowds set in from having 4 boats docked at the seemingly only surf break in the Indian Ocean.   The last remnants of the mon/tue swell were running out...and soon tide and inconsistency prevailed.  Tome to have a feed and rest sore shoulders and a toe!!! Yesterday or day before i dislocated my 2nd toe on the step ladder from the dingy skiff to the boat.  It didn't hurt too bad ...more just weird...as it wouldn't bend and hurt when tried. So an accidental forced bend and a pop...sent it back to a proper place i guess...as relief from pressure it seemed to feel better. All that was left was ugly bruising and a swollen joint  but it didn't affect my surfing or standing about the boat so I was fine  unless i stubbed it or it was forced to bend again!!! haha.  anyway.

The rest of the day was lazy and relaxing with contemplation of a sunet surf but it rained and the surfed dropped even more...so we put the lines out and fished instead... as we took off for out night anchor spot...mike caught another GT even bigger than the one outside of HT's on the boat ride down here...so fresh fish abounds again!

Pretty interesting kangaroo court this evening... standard from the view of wipe out of the day and wave of the day.  AJ got a barrel so he was a winner of the Wave O Day and Paul as usual was in the running for both wipeout and puss boots but only came away with wipe out of the day for yet another over the falls..but to his credit he does charge and sets up deeper than anyone else in the lineup no matter what. 

In a strange turn of events Mike was brought up on puss boots charges definitely more dick of the day by sneaking into my pack and graffiti-izing my Capt America trunks as they have come to be known.  These wonderful swim trunks are a patriotic symbol of american pride with white stars in a field of blue overlaid in bars of red on white stubbies.  A beautifully hand made pair from CA own chubbies board shorts...they have a bit of a cult following and definitely spark up pride among those whom it should.   They have been a topic of discussion each night since they are what i relax in the hot humid evenings with...giving my legs and especially my inner thighs a bit of a breather from the wet board shorts, wax and other common irritants that cause a painful rub rash to break out...but nothing a little wave hunter belly jelly or petrojelly wont cure with a little air drying TLC.   Having had these shorts each night and being the lone American i have been a target from the onset...but its been all gentle fun and rousting..mostly in the form of Team America the movie.  Definitely a cult classic from the makers of south park tv show.  So the term from the movie...America, Fuck Yeah... is used quite a bit in every setting and every discussion i am involved with... again all in fun and always good natured...but altogether sarcastically silly much like the movie.

well mike (a kiwi, recently naturalized citizen of the united states of Amurika) decides  to defile my shorts with the Team America slogan "F' Yeah" across the front!  I didn't notice until the boys decided to watch the movie and i broke out the shorts in jest...much to my surprise...i didn't know how or when this happened....or who.  I thought oh well...that is rather funny and i guess i cant wear these to the pool anymore!!! But then to have hobby come out and bring the truth of this act to light and name Bish as the culprit....well to say i was devastated was an understatement...a fellow amurikan citizen not only negligent but pre meditated in his actions to defile our countries stars and bars is devastating and a travesty of epic proportions only resolved by an all out assault and war!  

I let mike know he should be expecting as much and should take no comfort in knowing that he will not know when it is coming...but if and when it does and too what grand effect and  with whom and where, why and what means by any necessary measure it will most definitely air a feeling of Shock n' Awe to the highest magnitude... Fuck Yeah!

Thursday, August 27, 2015

Thursday 5th day

Thursday 5

Swell dropping off considerably= 2 foot
Bintangs and HT's. skiff in the morning to Lances Left.

Day 5 began much like the one before. we rolled out from our night anchor and went to Bingtangs. Amazing to see the difference when the swell drops and it almost becomes more livelier.  I still didn't want to paddle like a mad man for what it was offering in hopes of saving my shoulder some wear and tear and hopefully having another afternoon at lances left... plus the weather was a bit crappy so i took time to eat, properly stretch and catch up on the blog.  I was kinda late to the skiff boat leaving and heading over to Lances Left and they had a pretty full load...so i figured i'd catch it later on a return trip.   But that never happened as the skiff understandably stayed with the surfers for safety reasons and by the time they got back we already had lunch and were heading back to HT's or lances right for the afternoon.

i was bummed about that because i finally started getting in a groove there and wanted to progress from that point however the extra rest did some massive good...along with a solid sleep and no back spasms i haven't felt this good since days before the trip started. As we pull up to HT's it is also much more tame than yesterday but set waves would produce an occasional comparison.  Regardless the sun was shining and it was beautiful out so i made the best of it and to get some paddling in and hopefully a solid ride.  It really didn't manifest itself as it just kept getting more and more crowded which makes it that much harder to maneuver for waves and stay out of harm's way in another.  So i didn't want to push my luck either as Hobby had recently been washed up on the dry reef and just came away with a couple serious board dings.  I headed back in with my shoulder feeling good and ready to enjoy the rest of the day with the others.

It was magnificent weather and scenery...spirits were high and as we pulled away from Lances we caught a GT tuna cruising along...so the second fish snagged and spirits even higher.

held kangaroo court a bit more earlier so puss boots could be used more in fetching everyone beers when requested.  so even more evolution of the award has happened and no way to tell where it might end.

Dom got puss boots dick of the day for dropping in on everyone and their mother at every spot... for each one he would give some solstice to the receiver of a reef meeting with "sorry mate i owe you one" effectively admitting his guiltiness.

Wave of the day was Hobby as he got a sweet barrel at HT's and didn't seem to mind his board getting wrecked for the second straight day.   Yesterday his complete leash plug popped out while fighting lances white wash.

Wipe out of the day was Glen for exploding lip and sit down at HT's with some good photographic evidence by Joey.

We headed south and will be motoring into Macaronis sometime tonight. we'll anchor up behind the island and wander out super early.  ok cheers !

Tuesday, August 25, 2015

wednesday 4

Wednesday 4

Time seems to really be going by now...one spot to the next and the group is settling in on getting to know each other and having fun.

At first light we are the first boat at HT's or Lances Right...and it is FIRING.  THis right hander is the first of the trip which has all the regular footers stoked and frothing at the mouth to get out there. Me on the other knew this wasn't the best conditions to work on my backside improvements since I am a Goofy ( right foot forward) and we have only had lefts up to this point.  This  swell and wind conditions are a sight to see and the best of the young trip...just in amazement right now. Im sure the pictures don't do it justice nor do the depict the amphitheater of nobbies (reef) that awaits each wipe out or poor decision not to exit the wave at the right time....as is each point break that takes a swell heading in a different direction and bends it perpendicular in towards the shore... the half moon reef exposed is different in all spots but the result is all the same.  Big Paul sat it out with me so we had some laughs and were all to happy to be dry on this one. Lots of good drop in snakes with photographic evidence would provide a lively court this evening...but also just a lively group excited to have caught this legendary spot at perfect conditions.  As it were we pick up anchor and let others have a go at it...as the channel and great viewing spot of this peeling beast is one of the best setups in the Mentawai...but cramped and crowed with 4 boats sitting in upon it.  El Captitan does some magician like maneuvering to spin us out of there and we are on our way to check out Bingtangs....a supposedly more water and mellow spot.   However, upon arrival a thick and hollow wave presents itself. Joey is excited while everyone else is exhausted from the mornings adventures at HT's.  I decided to paddle out with Joey if nothing more than to watch... again a right handed break here is supposed to produce a nice spinning barrels for one to make a drop and enter and exit a tube with a good experience.  However with too much swell on it and the amount of paddle required to stay in the right spot...this again is not a spot for me.  Joey quickly pulls in and gets slotted in a nice tube.  Its an elevator drop followed by a skillful bottom   turn into crouch rail grab barrel ride all in the matter of a few seconds.
Ridiculous doesn't seem to properly explain this wave right now.   Imagine  a smaller head high version of the "the right" down in Australia combined with Waimai shore break.   The thickness of the wave is developed by a swell being sucked into a small table top ledge of a reef on a point of an island.  There's lots of deep water...but because of this sucking of water to draw the wave in....you see the reef clearly in all its formable nature even though you aren't in danger of hitting the reef....because when all that water breaks it some how fills the void but surrounds you and puts you into a massive spin cycle.   So the solution is to make every drop and exit out the backside.  Haha easy enough... uh yeah not... I sit atop my board a couple stories above the back of the break and watch....which is gnarly enough... its just like no other place I've seen...the dynamics of the spot and how the wave is produced is truly awe inspiring.  A couple other people come out and try their hand really to no avail.... then we all just laughed and ate lunch as we headed over to legendary spot number 2....Lances Left.   

We enjoyed cheese burgers in paradise 

and then went out for a legendary session in 4 to 5 foot indo surf.   UNBELIEVABLE on all accounts and the left handed wave was in a consistent spot and fun for everyone...lots of power and speed and deep water provided a lot of waves to catch and charge with a bit of wreck less abandonment that had not been available or on display at other spots.   Tons of great wave riding and funny wipeouts by all had smiles around as another storm approached and the ensuing sunset capped of a legendary day both by Joey putting in greats spots with great timing and us beeing able to see these famous spots at their best!!   Spirits were super high to say the least.

A great kangaroo court produced another tradition of the 3 winners shotgunning a beer at its conclusion :

Puss boots dick of the day.. Hobby for his jettison snakes and drop ins on everyone! 

Wave of the Day.. Joey at Bingangs...  just in a word... sick!

Wipe out of the day... AJ at Bingtangs... but really for following it up from yesterdays wipeout and another huge one at a formidable break has him easily wearing the hat.

Late night storm hits and lots of rain and wind has us looking for a calm spot to drop anchor.

tuesday 3rd day

Tuesday 3

We were up early at scarecrows and on the spot before day break so all 10 of us were out in the water and having a good go at it, wave height and power was much more substantial.  There was clouds and rain which made for glass conditions as well.  It was super fun seeing all the boys get rides and having a couple myself.  A couple more boats showed up as well as some long taxi boats from the nearby resort/bunglows and pretty soon it was super crowded. The sun came out and got pretty hot as well.  A couple good wipeouts by a few and lots of paddling and surfing in a 3 hours session had everyone pretty tired.  So Joey wanted to escape the crowds and do some maneuvering away from other boats that were in the middle to end of there charter time....thus setting us up for a week or so of cruising and surfing spots to ourselves that was the idea any way.   As we left out of Scarecrows we went to check on Telescopes just north.  The wind was bad and not much working in the form of a swell / direction.  So just a brief stop there as we wanted make an anchor spot to hit HT's (hollow trees or Lances Right)  in the morning...because of the upcoming storm  Joey was banking on that area to the north beeing the call.   The storm hit and a really rough ride ensued...we backtracked a little to get on the east side of the island and make it easier...but really choppy and lots of Listing!!!  We were all resided to the bar inside watching surf videos and waiting out the storm.  By the time we reached our anchor spot a nice bay about half an hour ride south of HT's the storm had finally subsided enough for us to enjoy the outside and get out of the cramped cabin..besides everyone is happier milling about outside and enjoying the views, the big eating table, endless music selection and of course Bintangs!  The food was off the charts and just seems to get better and better!  I think Ruli  the chef had been doing his own thing of fusion  of foods long before its become so popular especially in the states.  

Speaking of which the rest of the staff have been kick ass!  They all have their own personality  Frankie big smiles is always singing and smiling and always ready for a joke or two.  Agus (agoose)  Is mellow and the laid back surfer of the group...always decked out in a flat lid and shades...he always nows about the breaks we are going to as well and gives us a more down to earth version than Joey...who is a Jetti on the surf spot knowledge but also in the waves...his ability has to be tempered with what is doable for some of us.  Then there's Agar (edgar + acre) he's usually the guy that ferries us out to the wave on the skiff or the dingy...they have 2 boats of differing size which is super nice and useful.
Then there is the quiet Mechanic (boss a slang in indo for the mech) Nonan rarely speaks and is generally always smoking while fixing things, fishing or just chilling. Then there's El Capitan...older gentlemen very quiet as well always on his cell phone checking his facebook page, hahaha. But his name escapes me...I am sure it comes up again.

As we had just started to pull into our anchor spot...we land a fish on one of the poles set up while trolling to our spot.  IT's a Wahoo...and we are super excited.  this will make for some good sashimi tonight as well as some good food tomorrow.

Kangaroo court:  Bish gets puss boots dick of the day for dropping in and snaking 2 people on the same wave...one was clearly snaking the other...but it didn't matter since Mike further dropped them both out and took the wave.  He didn't like the facts of the story..but it is what it is and hobby had seen it and repaid the story telling favor of the night before. As for the wipeout...no one was to see the incredible one I witnessed when AJ stepped on a land mine that went off as soon as he was going off the top of a lip...but it was unlike anything I had seen before. Then the wave Hulk Hogan Body slammed him on his back 6 feet in the air.  I waited to see if he was ok and for him to surface out of the impact zone and reef below.  Much to my astonishment he popped up and gave me a hoot when I gestured for him to see if help was needed.  All was well and we had a massive laugh talking about the particulars of what happened.  Still worst wipe out of the day went to Paul for the sheer hilarity of what happened and everyone seeing it.  He took a massive spill out of a free fall drop in on a first of a set wave, got hammered straight down in a summersault form and apparently had to wrestle with his rash guard as it was all over his head and helmet which he had just put on for the first time.  First off Paul is a big boy as well... imagine Keg Chest as a good description with a stout bock head set upon that ... and thus you have Paul's makeup.  Clearly shaken he had to take a break but only after paddling out of the impact zone.  he sat in the channel where no wave could get to him with a helmet on and no rashy... everyone was laughing now that he was fine.  Even funnier was hearing his account of the story.  Clearly he and Hobby will be banging it out for this award night after night both in story telling and just sheer stature as they are very big and stout men.

monday 2

Monday 2nd day

Brought another good morning and surf at 7 palms.  Heads were a little bingtang heavy but hearts were strong and waves still lagging a bit.  All in all a good start.  Plus a legendary over the falls move on Hobby's late drop in gave Mike (Bish) all the fuel he needed to push for his old pal to be wearing the hat this evening. Pretty inconsistent waves persisted so we enjoyed lunch and motored over back to the spot we had first entered...Scarecrows.  The wind and a bit more swell was making this spot work a bit more as you could tell a difference from our first foray into left point break.  However, there were 3 boats already there.  Again we pulled up and only a couple people had a surf...after a couple hours of watching.  That evening we would anchor nearby and enjoy another spectacular sunset and food.  We hoped to get in on an early surf at scarecrows as the swell seemed to be building.

The Dick of the Day and Puss Boots have quickly combined as one award...So AJ, for the non table suck....got to give away his slippers to Paul...who in the midst of the Kangaroo court was doing to much defending of another mans actions (John) when he had in fact dropped in on him...several thought there was something going on so Puss Boots for defending, and dick of the day for a drop in were spawned.  Congrats Paully!!

Sunday, August 23, 2015

Sunday 1st day

Sunday  1

We had anchored up in a channel behind Siberut Island essentially the east side with protection from the south and westerly swells and wind. The first light brought us motoring through the inlet between a smaller island to the north were Telescopes, Icelands and.... other breaks are found. But immediately to the south as we passed was Suicides, as it is appropriately named since it is not surfable and would result in an early exit if so chosen.  Around the corner however was a good spot named Scarecrows...when on has a beautiful left hook that starts outside as south southwest swells bend in and the reef wraps it around to a hollow and more shallow inside section.  But the small swell and direction didn't allow or produce any of that for us on this first morning.  So after a lot of paddling and getting used to surfing in open ocean with no beach nearby...everyone was ready for breakfast.  After which our Surf Guide Joey thought it would be best to check out some other spots much more receptive to small swells and wind direction.   As we motored south the islaand landscape of palm trees, sand beaches and open water for miles on the horizon kept everyone giddy with anticipation as it was nice to just finally "be" here.  We arrived at our next destination  7 Palms which was a beautiful bay as well.... another boat was already there with 7-9 surfers already out so we took our time as is the unwritten code in this area not to swarm and swamp a place.  It is always good to keep your karma at a high level here as many areas of access can be tested and not only denied but down right made miserable if one isn't a proper keeper of such codes.   So we chilled and enjoyed the scenery....as a few members of the other boat started to shuffle in Joey would send a couple of our own out.  The waves looked decent enough and fun....which was definitely what our boat was looking for... and nice couple days of "warm up" waves.  Myself being low man on the talent totem pole  probably could use a whole week or two of this, but...as it goes you have to push your limits some to get better, and everyone on the boat was again on that same page.  We all eventually got out and got waves, but the inconsistency made for long waits in between sets and just more time for the Kiwi's to raz each and everyone.  Good fun was had and lots of laughter so all was well regardless of wave count.  As the other boat left to motor to another spot in search of waves....  Joey made the call to stay as the small week swell would not be providing any juice to other spots nearby and there just aren't that many small swell breaks here...so we might as well stay until things pick up.   That was fine by all of us.. and we enjoyed a PHENOMENAL dinner from Ruli the cook.   Not to mention one of the best sunsets of a lifetime!!!   YES that feeling of we are FINALLY here still abounded and so did the laughter, local bintang  beers and happiness that surrounds surf trips, good friends and good food.....and oh yea a kick aas boat  and crew in an exotic location.

Almost forgot..but nightly awards are given out...as is the tradition on a rugby tour where a team travels to another country for some test matches to tune up for a season or tournament....while on the road a Kangaroo Court is held to hand out awards based on the prior day/nights shenanigans...Dick of the Day is usually a bad move or being a general dumb ass in anyway.  Much like Ass of the week or any other fraternal group or team meet up to decide such nonsense that happens and whereby the art of story telling is every bit as important as the action itself.

Since I had noticed and swiped a pair of white hotel slippers from the HW in Padang...they were just too silly looking not to take, Mike, Dom and I decided that this would be a good place to start.  A Cinderella type of give away to someone that's being too much of a sally.  SO the first night for example AJ got the sandals for not table sucking (drinking the spillage off the table) a beer he had knocked over.  He was worried about the table dirtiness.  We were all worried more about wasting beer....naturally, that is the more understandable action...even though we had ordered 29 cases MORE of beer than what was allotted in our boat pension/price...which was 3 beers a day per person...almost an unimaginable amount among southern hemisphere drinkers like Kiwi's...and when in Rome, I am completely in agreement.

Other awards soon came about...Wipe out of the Day...which garnered a outback looking type hat.  Wave of the day... no physical award, just the recognition from your compatriots.

So the winners for the first day were   AJ- puss boots; Paul - dick of the day honors for dropping in on someone and taking the wave all the while not in the position to have done so....no wave of the day or wipe out of day due to conditions.

Saturday, August 22, 2015

august 8th again again again

no this isn't the movie ground hog day...or least i don't think so...?
for pics go to google +  link.

August 8th 

Saturday got here with heavy anticipation of the boys meeting up and the ensuing boat trip out to the mentawai's.  After meeting our surf guide Joey from San Diego we had a quick chat and then he had some particulars to sort as the others from Australia arrived a bit later on in the day.   It was good to away from Jakarta, the site of ANY airport and in the company of old friends...a Raleighwood Reunion of sorts as Dom, now in Brisbane originally from Cornwall England has always been considered a raleigh boy.  His trips back to the city of Oaks have been legendary thus far.  I don't see that changing anytime soon as it appears he'll be back for a conference next summer and will surely plan some "off" time to be had around a week of work.  Mike, a Kiwi calling and d like me calling Raleigh his home the past 12 years...Dom and myself were all fast friends when we all met all be it in different timeframes...but no matter  Rugby and Surfing are two things we shared passion for and ultimately how we met/developed our friendship.  Both super mellow guys and great senses of humor, they make for good travel partners at any level or in any country.  As it is we of course had a huge piss up last night as we all were all travel weary and overdue for some jars of Indonesia's finest.  Bintang is the local beer here and quite good actually.  Imagine it as more mellow heiniken or better tasting miller lite.  A fine pilsner either way for the heat and humidity that is all around and on us!   We had a pretty rough morning as a result of  Tee Box...a local pool hall and karaoke bar and right across the street from our extremely cheap and new HW hotel...20 bucks a night! However, seeing how Mike had arrived early and checked in under my reservation didn't really give mind about the single queen bed in the room....a double had been requested but was just one of the many communication breakdowns between hotel staff and us.  They really didn't speak any english...and of course no indo for us!   So when Joey nocked on our door to find a big Kiwi prop in the same bed as a non forward slight framed winger comparisons and thoughts going through his mind were probably quite hilarious.  He made some interesting convo and pulled through it...but then came the nock upon Dom's door where he peeked through a cave of darkness and said a weary hello...all the time hiding behind the door... clearly naked.  Good on ya Dominic!  Again...a penny for Joey's thoughts!!

Soon we were off and checking out of the hotel after a quick breakfast and some damn good fresh Sumatran Coffee! We were collected by a driver and taken off to meet our next pickup who we had heard was staying down the road...but we were unable to hook up with the night before.  Glenn was also a Kiwi from Auckland but living in Sydney the past 5 years.  There were some rumors of Aussie's on this trip as Mike didn't know all the names on the emails... but come to find out this would be an All Kiwi and One Cornwallian and American trip!  After picking up Glen we went to the Oxana Hotel where we to chill have some lunch, beers and wait for the others to arrive.   Soon that did  as Graham, Paul, John, and AJ were a part of the first wave to arrive. Followed by Mike's high school and rugby team mates Kim (Hobby) and Simon  from North Shore Aukland and Takapuna rugby club fame.  They were long friends and formidable front row of Hobby being tight head prop Simon a hooker (in the middle) and Mike the loose head prop. it had been sometime since the 3 had seen  each other... I think 3 years ago for a 40th celebration of the 3 down in NZ.

We sorted out some cash and particulars of the trip with our surf guide Joey...and then we were off to the boat to meet the crew and wait for high tide to allow us out of the channel of Padang.  It would be about 10 pm before we got out the channel as they were doing some dredging of the river inlet and we had to wait for good time to pass by the machinery and the process.  After that it was about 8-9 hours on the water crossing before we would make our first anchor location in the beautiful Mentewai Islands.

Pretty rough seas on the way out which didn't allow for much sleep...so some bintang's and stories of catching up made for a late evening.  It's pretty cool waking up in such a remote and distant place in the morning after a long and arduous journey to get there....paradise was definitely found!

Friday, August 21, 2015

For now...

Since there are inherant problems persist with posting here by mobile, until i can figure out on a desktop i will post brief text here with photos on google+

https://plus.google.com/106153925102138413765?gl=sg

since the upload seems to work easier there...sorry for the confusion just didn't have time to test and figure out before leaving.  Hope you all still enjoy...cheers

Saturday, August 8, 2015

check my instagram account "coxo21" for some photos as this site is being grumpy about uploading from my phone.... will be back online on the 20th !!!  wish me luck and cheers!
all the boys have met up and we have a solid crew...all kiwis one brit and me the lone american...in a word solid!!! Not much time to write now will try and post from my notes later on...so may be a couple weeks until i can post them as i will be out on the boat in the indian ocean!!! The mentawai islands await and everyone is super fired up. Its great to meet my kiwi friends Mike buddies from high school and a good mate from the raleigh rugby days... both dominic and i fit in just fine even being the odd balls out with the key words being balls out!!! good kiwi humor is a must and just awesome. definitely reliving some beautiful highlights from the 2011 world cup...and one of the most beautifully awesome countries in the world.  The stoke among the group is indescribable.


 




Thursday, August 6, 2015

the clock is ticking

Not much to report from a day in Singapore...sentosa trip was exhausting and too much of a theme park...the wave house had only one wave machine going and not the one that produces the tube/barrel...then it ended up raining all day! However i wasn't on a plane so it was all good!  I enjoyed seeing a new city and having good food....even though beers were $14 US at decent eateries and seemed to go up as the night went on.  Sales stopped at 1030pm at 7-11. and some restaurants served until 1159pm but only certain few...so that was interesting.  Again however, I wasn't couped up in a cylindrical jet ship hurling through the air, so i enjoyed myself and the sites.

But time is ticking and i can't wait any longer...need water need surf!!!

Been wetting appetite with these...
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Xm49yEL6ca4

also a picture from last night while eating a fine dinner at a place called Indochine







Wednesday, August 5, 2015

Good Morning Singapore

Got some decent rest last night after a 4 different airports in 3 different countries. It had almost been 2 days since a shower and laying my head flat on a bed so at the very least i was happy with that very simple treat.  I feel great however since i was able to get some quality shuteye on the 13 hour portion of my flight to Japan.  So the 5 or 6 hours of sleep acquired last night i am ready to enjoy the layover day in Singapore.  Seems i will miss the big 50 year anniversary city wide celebration this weekend...but that's ok, i'd rather be on another plane to meet up with friends in a equatorial paradise with luscious waves to enjoy!!!  On that note, I plan to spend part of today at Sentosa park...a giant all encompassing park of entertainment that also has a kick ass wave house / pool.  I don't think i will waste much time with the rest of the park which seems like universal studios meets Godzilla in the outback of the rocky mountains of the caribbean!!  Anyway, it will be nice to knock off some travel rust and get wet, get my legs back under me and enjoy some manufactured surf. Right now however, its time for some breaky as i am hungry and need some fuel.

view from the adler hostel across the street china town!

i think im turning Japanese i think im turning Japanese i really think so!





Tuesday, August 4, 2015

A Huge Trip is Nigh INDONESIA its time to FLY!!!

Okay... Well finally getting around to restarting this sucka....jeez hard to believe it's been 4 years since the NZ and Oz trip, Glad to be embarking on an equally challenging and fun trip!

As always please check out the site below and pay some mind to your local beach or favorite stream, lake or mountain.

http://www.surfrider.org/jims-blog