Friday was Spent traveling to Brisbane by shuttle bus to the Airport...one of the nicest airports I've ever been in...it made the long wait for my flight barable. I watched the amazing Samoa South Africa match and enjoyed some food and beers. Tried catching this blog up but mostly slept and recoup'd for what would certainly be a big weekend....As the SWEEEEEEEEED gets into country.
Hanky the Neuro Toxicologist is one the most classic people I know... as he likes to say it will be on like Donkey Kong. Actually he says so many funny things its almost impossible to get them all down.... I really need to get this caught up so I can get back to daily entries....so i can try and capture and remember everything.
It was late when I got into Auckland, Chris picked me up and We both crashed when we got back to the house... I would sleep in and wait for Hanky to arrive in the Camper Van... while Chris, Jo and kids had some activities in the morning. We would hook up later on Saturday afternoon. Ferry over to downtown and watch the France Tonga match up and the Scotland England game. Should be a good saturday.
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Byron Winds Down
The last couple days/nights were just as fun as the others.....especially since I spent one of the best days of my life surfing in the morning. After three days of a strong southernly swell wrapping in around point Byron and flapping the main beach (which faces north) with long winding curved rights, Wednesday morning brought more of an eaterly swell and winds out of the west northwest which gave it a nice slight off shore.
There was less rip current and sidshore drift from the wrapping around function I mentioned above. However, sitting in the water or watching perched from a bluff....it is amazing to see a wave and its energy get bent around a point, pulled back around and unleashed like the casting lead of a fly fishermen's line. It just keeps bending with the curvature of the beach/bay and its sandbars which are held in place by the underlying rock from the mainland. I saw some of the longest rides and biggest smiles I have ever seen in my life. Even the reform waves an portions that keep going inward are amazing...and since there were so many people out, sometimes this is an irresistable option versus the harsh paddle out beyond the line up.
So after a few days of nonstop paddling, Beautiful Wednesday was my big Wednesday and my fitness and spagetti arms would not be tested further. Thus I was able to stay out 3 hours or so and take everything in as well as have some phenominal rides myself. Also much thanks to Dan at Demo Hire where I got my board and suit, his knowledge of what the swell and winds were doing was also instrumental in me having fun and alway spot on with what would be breaking where....especially on this day, he had me in the perfect spot amoung Byron's various breaks waves and people out enjoying them all.
With the swell directions changing up a bit, I was able to find a nice section where Lefts would come in and afford my goofy footed riding stance some front side fun. This is more natural to me and easier, but I have enjoyed as well as gotten better at backside drop ins and manuvering over the past week....which is something I wanted to accomplish on this trip.
Paddling back out to the line up and waiting for the next set waves to roll in was equally fun as i continually looked back at the sun drenced light house or the smoky haze that hung around the mountains points further to the north. I knew my riding days were coming to an end and I wanted to enjoy and make mental notes of memory for another time. I only hope I can squeeze in a day or two of surfing in NZ...because I know I will be certainly missing these waves, views and general nostalgia of hey i'm freaking surfing in Australia!!!
As the tide came in and the water made conditions to mushy...I decided to get in and grab some Brecky, relax and figure out what to do with the rest of the day. So thats what I did... instead of fixing breakfast or eating in...I treated myself to a big brecky and a fresh fruit juice smoothy. Big Brecky's consist of Two Eggs, sausage links and Bacon...but the bacon is more like canadian style so...def a bit more meat than usual, along with some toast of sorts and some fruit. Needless to say I was stuffed and ready for a nap in the warm sand and sun. Ahhh Pura Vida....the good life!
Later on some volleyball was welcomed as the runner high set in from the morning I had enjoyed. The day flew by and the night brought some dinner around the courtyard as there was a bbq for all at the bargain cost of $2 Everyone was fired up as it seemed a night that would be a send off for the group of sorts. The next day would be the last in town for most and the rest were taking out on friday noon. We all enjoyed some music at Woody's, the local surf bar and Theo and I watched some old surf movies that were streaming along on the TV's...its always fun to see or witness others getting hooked on surfing....as you remember it as well. I think there will be some renunion of sorts in the future where some of the guys meet up for a surf vacation... I think that would be cool as well. The happenings that night were strange because it seemed like everyone in the whole town was on the same runner's high as us and their weeks of fun coming to an end....because this bar absolutely went crazy. One of the guys from the surf tour (on a different route, but who had met us / hung out in Coeff's harbor) had showed up into town on his way north to Cairns. Nikko, is fun at the word go...so between him, myself and Theo...I laughed as hard as I have at any sober memory point in the past year or two. Its rather hard to explain but everyone was in such good spirits and just having fun...it was amazing. SO much so....that three of the German Girls that had split from the group earlier in the week to work and live in Byron....were suddenly in the bar and talking to us....very different from the surf tour and earlier in the week when we first arrived in Byron.
Jason, seemed to think it was because they weren't as comfortable talking english as the others in the group were....and this only added to any other insecurities they may have.... Theo quickly added that it didn't seem to affect them keeping their cloths on!!! A funny joke pointed at one, who seemed to hook up with a different guy at every stop along the way! Ahhh Theo, a great friend with the same pointed sense of humor as I...we had named one of the other german girls the "mute possum" because she never responded when you said hi or waved to her...and most the time her face had an expression like a hissing possum! Not really but the anti-social behavior made the analogy believable.... Altogether mean, but mostly accurate. She was talking at a rate which would make a valley girl from CA jealous. The sad thing was the music was so loud barely any of the talk was understood....she did say that she missed the group and all the activities....Theo puzzled then asked me...if she even really knew our names!! As you can see, I was laughing from start to end on this night.
"Jeepers Bro', I can't sleep, Byron Bay....I'm so excited I can't sleep" the funny quote from South African Steve was used quite a bit during the week and especially on this night because this definitely would have been a night for him to enjoy...and Im sure once he hears the stories, he'll say the same.
Everyone was dancing drinking and having a blast. Even Nikko the kid from Finland that had caught up with the group from Coeff's Harbour....had just one a great deal on travel up to Cairns worth about 650 bucks...so he was stoked since that was his plan anyway...now it was funded! He found a marker laying around in one of the booths or something, then the next thing you know fake mustaches were coming out as well as some other facial drawings....normally odd and childish, but on this night it seemed anything went and did...with great laughter, again just one of those nights. Even the antisocial German girls got in on the act. Quite funny since Theo had a hitler mustache which normally would be bad but you really can't take anything serious from an innocent fun guy like him...later that night even a girl who was adamently claiming her Jewish Ancestry was talking to him for quite a long time which just furthered the non serious nature of the fun had that night. I only got a couple pics off that night, so I will be eagerly awaiting some emails with photos shared from the group in the future.
The next day was the same....except for the weather and the swell....both of which had degraded but not to the point where either couldn't be enjoyed. I decided to head out and see some sites like Kirra Point and Snapper Rocks which are two legendary surf spots up the gold coast just south of the Surfer's Paradise which is like the Miami of the Australian East coast, with all the Sky High condos and massive build up along the coast its quite the opposite of the tranquil and majestic coastline views leading up to that area. It was some good time spent wandering around. I think I found my dream board as well... a Takayama, I think in this case Art Imitates Life. Just a beautiful shape, lines and cool color.
That night was a bit more mellow as just some food and drink in the courtyard. We hung out with the last two of the Norwegian girls as they hadn't really been up much of the day...mostly sleeping and recovering from the big party...they hung out for a bit, but quickly retired later on. That would be the last time we saw them as we didn't catch up with them the next day while gathering our things to catch the bus out of town.
This was it for the surf tour and Byron Bay as well. Myself, the 3 dutch Jason, Merrium, and Andrea as well as a couple other guys who were on a different surf group...would all be heading to Brisbane...them to continue their journey...me to fly back to Auckland for the rest of the world cup. Jana, one of the fun gernmans had left the day before as well...heading back to Melbourne. She was a classic and always provided some humor on the dance floor or late night when she was further "confussed" by the nights spirits. I think the best being ... showering with all her cloths on, only realizing later when she tried to get back in her room, but couldn't because she lost her key!! Good stuff.
Theo, and the Two German guys Thomas and David would be staying in Byron a few more days before starting their jobs that had recently landed. Theo seemed excited to settle down and do some work on a local farm...where by he might be able to continue his surfing progression when not working. The Germans would be working for a municipality...I think water works type thing... lots of hours for three weeks, then back to traveling.
I look forward to getting updates from all along the way and following them while Im back in the states.
There was less rip current and sidshore drift from the wrapping around function I mentioned above. However, sitting in the water or watching perched from a bluff....it is amazing to see a wave and its energy get bent around a point, pulled back around and unleashed like the casting lead of a fly fishermen's line. It just keeps bending with the curvature of the beach/bay and its sandbars which are held in place by the underlying rock from the mainland. I saw some of the longest rides and biggest smiles I have ever seen in my life. Even the reform waves an portions that keep going inward are amazing...and since there were so many people out, sometimes this is an irresistable option versus the harsh paddle out beyond the line up.
So after a few days of nonstop paddling, Beautiful Wednesday was my big Wednesday and my fitness and spagetti arms would not be tested further. Thus I was able to stay out 3 hours or so and take everything in as well as have some phenominal rides myself. Also much thanks to Dan at Demo Hire where I got my board and suit, his knowledge of what the swell and winds were doing was also instrumental in me having fun and alway spot on with what would be breaking where....especially on this day, he had me in the perfect spot amoung Byron's various breaks waves and people out enjoying them all.
With the swell directions changing up a bit, I was able to find a nice section where Lefts would come in and afford my goofy footed riding stance some front side fun. This is more natural to me and easier, but I have enjoyed as well as gotten better at backside drop ins and manuvering over the past week....which is something I wanted to accomplish on this trip.
Paddling back out to the line up and waiting for the next set waves to roll in was equally fun as i continually looked back at the sun drenced light house or the smoky haze that hung around the mountains points further to the north. I knew my riding days were coming to an end and I wanted to enjoy and make mental notes of memory for another time. I only hope I can squeeze in a day or two of surfing in NZ...because I know I will be certainly missing these waves, views and general nostalgia of hey i'm freaking surfing in Australia!!!
As the tide came in and the water made conditions to mushy...I decided to get in and grab some Brecky, relax and figure out what to do with the rest of the day. So thats what I did... instead of fixing breakfast or eating in...I treated myself to a big brecky and a fresh fruit juice smoothy. Big Brecky's consist of Two Eggs, sausage links and Bacon...but the bacon is more like canadian style so...def a bit more meat than usual, along with some toast of sorts and some fruit. Needless to say I was stuffed and ready for a nap in the warm sand and sun. Ahhh Pura Vida....the good life!
Later on some volleyball was welcomed as the runner high set in from the morning I had enjoyed. The day flew by and the night brought some dinner around the courtyard as there was a bbq for all at the bargain cost of $2 Everyone was fired up as it seemed a night that would be a send off for the group of sorts. The next day would be the last in town for most and the rest were taking out on friday noon. We all enjoyed some music at Woody's, the local surf bar and Theo and I watched some old surf movies that were streaming along on the TV's...its always fun to see or witness others getting hooked on surfing....as you remember it as well. I think there will be some renunion of sorts in the future where some of the guys meet up for a surf vacation... I think that would be cool as well. The happenings that night were strange because it seemed like everyone in the whole town was on the same runner's high as us and their weeks of fun coming to an end....because this bar absolutely went crazy. One of the guys from the surf tour (on a different route, but who had met us / hung out in Coeff's harbor) had showed up into town on his way north to Cairns. Nikko, is fun at the word go...so between him, myself and Theo...I laughed as hard as I have at any sober memory point in the past year or two. Its rather hard to explain but everyone was in such good spirits and just having fun...it was amazing. SO much so....that three of the German Girls that had split from the group earlier in the week to work and live in Byron....were suddenly in the bar and talking to us....very different from the surf tour and earlier in the week when we first arrived in Byron.
Jason, seemed to think it was because they weren't as comfortable talking english as the others in the group were....and this only added to any other insecurities they may have.... Theo quickly added that it didn't seem to affect them keeping their cloths on!!! A funny joke pointed at one, who seemed to hook up with a different guy at every stop along the way! Ahhh Theo, a great friend with the same pointed sense of humor as I...we had named one of the other german girls the "mute possum" because she never responded when you said hi or waved to her...and most the time her face had an expression like a hissing possum! Not really but the anti-social behavior made the analogy believable.... Altogether mean, but mostly accurate. She was talking at a rate which would make a valley girl from CA jealous. The sad thing was the music was so loud barely any of the talk was understood....she did say that she missed the group and all the activities....Theo puzzled then asked me...if she even really knew our names!! As you can see, I was laughing from start to end on this night.
"Jeepers Bro', I can't sleep, Byron Bay....I'm so excited I can't sleep" the funny quote from South African Steve was used quite a bit during the week and especially on this night because this definitely would have been a night for him to enjoy...and Im sure once he hears the stories, he'll say the same.
Everyone was dancing drinking and having a blast. Even Nikko the kid from Finland that had caught up with the group from Coeff's Harbour....had just one a great deal on travel up to Cairns worth about 650 bucks...so he was stoked since that was his plan anyway...now it was funded! He found a marker laying around in one of the booths or something, then the next thing you know fake mustaches were coming out as well as some other facial drawings....normally odd and childish, but on this night it seemed anything went and did...with great laughter, again just one of those nights. Even the antisocial German girls got in on the act. Quite funny since Theo had a hitler mustache which normally would be bad but you really can't take anything serious from an innocent fun guy like him...later that night even a girl who was adamently claiming her Jewish Ancestry was talking to him for quite a long time which just furthered the non serious nature of the fun had that night. I only got a couple pics off that night, so I will be eagerly awaiting some emails with photos shared from the group in the future.
The next day was the same....except for the weather and the swell....both of which had degraded but not to the point where either couldn't be enjoyed. I decided to head out and see some sites like Kirra Point and Snapper Rocks which are two legendary surf spots up the gold coast just south of the Surfer's Paradise which is like the Miami of the Australian East coast, with all the Sky High condos and massive build up along the coast its quite the opposite of the tranquil and majestic coastline views leading up to that area. It was some good time spent wandering around. I think I found my dream board as well... a Takayama, I think in this case Art Imitates Life. Just a beautiful shape, lines and cool color.
That night was a bit more mellow as just some food and drink in the courtyard. We hung out with the last two of the Norwegian girls as they hadn't really been up much of the day...mostly sleeping and recovering from the big party...they hung out for a bit, but quickly retired later on. That would be the last time we saw them as we didn't catch up with them the next day while gathering our things to catch the bus out of town.
This was it for the surf tour and Byron Bay as well. Myself, the 3 dutch Jason, Merrium, and Andrea as well as a couple other guys who were on a different surf group...would all be heading to Brisbane...them to continue their journey...me to fly back to Auckland for the rest of the world cup. Jana, one of the fun gernmans had left the day before as well...heading back to Melbourne. She was a classic and always provided some humor on the dance floor or late night when she was further "confussed" by the nights spirits. I think the best being ... showering with all her cloths on, only realizing later when she tried to get back in her room, but couldn't because she lost her key!! Good stuff.
Theo, and the Two German guys Thomas and David would be staying in Byron a few more days before starting their jobs that had recently landed. Theo seemed excited to settle down and do some work on a local farm...where by he might be able to continue his surfing progression when not working. The Germans would be working for a municipality...I think water works type thing... lots of hours for three weeks, then back to traveling.
I look forward to getting updates from all along the way and following them while Im back in the states.
Tuesday, October 4, 2011
Byron Bay Continued
Byron Bay was flying by My new friend Theo and I both agreed we didn't know where the time was going. Each day was filled with the fun of surfing in the morning or evening depending on the tides then laying on the beach...even playing volleyball as the Canadians on our floor were always keen on getting the net and ball from the front desk and setting it up. I had made friends with them watching some NFL football on Monday morning when I couldn't sleep...and they seemed to enjoy our surf group crowd as we would always end up all hanging out somewhere at night. The nightlife was much like college as well....as it seemed the University holiday brought college kids and families alike to the coast and Byron always seems to be a destination of choice. Once the swell had arrived and the surf was consistent, the days seemed to fly bye. Then slowly two by two it seemed people started leaving and the group started getting smaller. On Tuesday night it was two of the Norwegians Julia and Veronica...so everyone went out for dinner and some drinks and sent them on their way. Since they were in my room. Theo and I went back to the room to hang out and chat with them more.
Its during these times when you get to know people a bit more, especially since they seemed to have a lot of fun with everyone and were a bit bummed to be moving on...but had some exciting travel ahead of them as well. We learned that they both have jobs that they really don't seem to excited about, Julia is a secretary and Veronica works at a grocery store. In Norway, the Minimum wage is over 20 dollars an hour.... mostly due to the high cost of living. The easiest way to equate things is through booze....so a bottle of vodka costing 25-35 dollars for a 750ml costs over 80 there! Their country as a whole is wealthy due to the oil they drilled for in the north sea. However, these girls as well as the other two...seem to say most people aren't happy there. For instance, it is completely out of the ordinary to stop and talk to someone in the street, store or in general. They find it intrusive and crazy!! Making small talk in a grocery store is completely out of the question....even if you know the person. I mentioned THAT sounds crazy and not somewhere I would enjoy living...they agreed and said that's why they don't want to go back! They were both curious to other comparatives in The US and Holland and mostly about college. I explained how this past week had been and reminded me of some times in college. Especially before school starting when all my friends and fraternity brothers were back in town and catching up from Christmas or Summer break. Either going out and eating and partying together or just hanging out and talking in your rooms...there was always something going on and people to catch up with...where they had been and what their plans were for the future.
Even these hostels were like our dorm rooms and the people on your floor seem to link together and become friends. They all liked the idea of that and seem to have no idea or friends who have had the same as i or my friends have had with college. They were also amazed to find out that I was on vacation time and being paid at the moment while traveling. Its not altogether strange why they hadn't really thought about my age or experience with work, travel or anything for that matter. Because really when you think about it those simple things mentioned follow us around from very early ages of social experience. Whether its in kindergarten or grade school, a summer camp or a road trip with a sports team....college seems to top off our experiences....or should anyway. Its a great time in life and one that you never want to end, but get to a point where you are ready to move on.
That night kind of summed up a week and night of all the same emotions and great times. They never get old to me and I think that's why I have enjoyed it so much to this point. I realize I've been just about as lucky as anyone I know with what I've been able to experience growing up to this point and the people along the way. Its also gratifying to see when other people understand it and maybe start figuring out how to keep it going themselves. Everyone is different....and everyone finds their pace and comfort level in the certain little joys in life. I may sound like a broken record at times repeating this same theme. But I guess that's just it...
In the same way the stories never get old either with newly met friends or old ones getting back together...you can never forget them or the ones around you responsible for helping you along the way. With that comes a fine line of living in the past or always planning for the future or in some cases worrying about what the future holds...so somewhere along the line you have to find a balance. Just like anything in life you have to find some comfortable balance. Its taken quite sometime...but somehow I made it through my adolescence and college years without F'ing up to bad and was able to graduate with some work experience in a field of work I can live with myself from day to day...one that lets me travel for extended times like these and be a kid again. I don't always know where I am going or where I might end up....but I feel like I am always progressing and trying to improve myself in some capacity.
So with those thoughts, some shared.. some kept... I went to bed happy and thankful.. like I have most nights for the past year.
On that note....I think its appropriate to throw in one of my favorite quotes from Gerry Lopez and Surf is Where You Find It... Fitting on so many levels.
After his very first Tow in Wave experience at Jaws in 25 foot plus waves....
"The waves looked bigger and scarier from the channel, but after riding a few, I felt it had been about the same as always. In the snowboard world, mountains always look a lot steeper and hairier when at the top looking down. From the bottom looking back up, they don't look steep at all. I continue to wonder why....Such is life we can know. Living in the past and in the future- in recollection and in anticipation - creates a less clear picture of the present. By being in the here and now we understand that the past and future only exist in the present. That's all there is, but speaking for myself, I couldn't ask for more."
I have come to really appreciate how Gerry Lopez looks at certain situations in his stories, there's just a simple Taoist type of mantra coming from his thoughts. Furthermore, it's a pretty good and even keel way to approach most things in life....and why most naturalist, outdoorsmen and surfers etc ...have some kind of happiness and centered attitude that only comes from enjoyment through the play ground where they choose to coexist. Enlightenment is probably the better term. Surf truely is where you find it!
Its during these times when you get to know people a bit more, especially since they seemed to have a lot of fun with everyone and were a bit bummed to be moving on...but had some exciting travel ahead of them as well. We learned that they both have jobs that they really don't seem to excited about, Julia is a secretary and Veronica works at a grocery store. In Norway, the Minimum wage is over 20 dollars an hour.... mostly due to the high cost of living. The easiest way to equate things is through booze....so a bottle of vodka costing 25-35 dollars for a 750ml costs over 80 there! Their country as a whole is wealthy due to the oil they drilled for in the north sea. However, these girls as well as the other two...seem to say most people aren't happy there. For instance, it is completely out of the ordinary to stop and talk to someone in the street, store or in general. They find it intrusive and crazy!! Making small talk in a grocery store is completely out of the question....even if you know the person. I mentioned THAT sounds crazy and not somewhere I would enjoy living...they agreed and said that's why they don't want to go back! They were both curious to other comparatives in The US and Holland and mostly about college. I explained how this past week had been and reminded me of some times in college. Especially before school starting when all my friends and fraternity brothers were back in town and catching up from Christmas or Summer break. Either going out and eating and partying together or just hanging out and talking in your rooms...there was always something going on and people to catch up with...where they had been and what their plans were for the future.
Even these hostels were like our dorm rooms and the people on your floor seem to link together and become friends. They all liked the idea of that and seem to have no idea or friends who have had the same as i or my friends have had with college. They were also amazed to find out that I was on vacation time and being paid at the moment while traveling. Its not altogether strange why they hadn't really thought about my age or experience with work, travel or anything for that matter. Because really when you think about it those simple things mentioned follow us around from very early ages of social experience. Whether its in kindergarten or grade school, a summer camp or a road trip with a sports team....college seems to top off our experiences....or should anyway. Its a great time in life and one that you never want to end, but get to a point where you are ready to move on.
That night kind of summed up a week and night of all the same emotions and great times. They never get old to me and I think that's why I have enjoyed it so much to this point. I realize I've been just about as lucky as anyone I know with what I've been able to experience growing up to this point and the people along the way. Its also gratifying to see when other people understand it and maybe start figuring out how to keep it going themselves. Everyone is different....and everyone finds their pace and comfort level in the certain little joys in life. I may sound like a broken record at times repeating this same theme. But I guess that's just it...
In the same way the stories never get old either with newly met friends or old ones getting back together...you can never forget them or the ones around you responsible for helping you along the way. With that comes a fine line of living in the past or always planning for the future or in some cases worrying about what the future holds...so somewhere along the line you have to find a balance. Just like anything in life you have to find some comfortable balance. Its taken quite sometime...but somehow I made it through my adolescence and college years without F'ing up to bad and was able to graduate with some work experience in a field of work I can live with myself from day to day...one that lets me travel for extended times like these and be a kid again. I don't always know where I am going or where I might end up....but I feel like I am always progressing and trying to improve myself in some capacity.
So with those thoughts, some shared.. some kept... I went to bed happy and thankful.. like I have most nights for the past year.
On that note....I think its appropriate to throw in one of my favorite quotes from Gerry Lopez and Surf is Where You Find It... Fitting on so many levels.
After his very first Tow in Wave experience at Jaws in 25 foot plus waves....
"The waves looked bigger and scarier from the channel, but after riding a few, I felt it had been about the same as always. In the snowboard world, mountains always look a lot steeper and hairier when at the top looking down. From the bottom looking back up, they don't look steep at all. I continue to wonder why....Such is life we can know. Living in the past and in the future- in recollection and in anticipation - creates a less clear picture of the present. By being in the here and now we understand that the past and future only exist in the present. That's all there is, but speaking for myself, I couldn't ask for more."
I have come to really appreciate how Gerry Lopez looks at certain situations in his stories, there's just a simple Taoist type of mantra coming from his thoughts. Furthermore, it's a pretty good and even keel way to approach most things in life....and why most naturalist, outdoorsmen and surfers etc ...have some kind of happiness and centered attitude that only comes from enjoyment through the play ground where they choose to coexist. Enlightenment is probably the better term. Surf truely is where you find it!
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