Friday 6th day

Friday 6

Swell considerably less power full still holding in 2-3ft range. wind side to onshore from south/west

Spent all day at Maca's

Awoke around 4 or 430 to rumbling engines as we were out of dock early to make what was sure to be crowded Macaronis or Maca's.  there are only so many boats allowed there and the local constable surf police enforce the laws there laid down by Indonesia government. Buy its well known that the local resort there Macaronis has invested a lot of money and has lobbied the government to try and control boat traffic at the spot...because it is such a popular break and does well in all conditions medium swell to small.  There's the conundrum...the mentawai's surf industry and taxes/monies that flow from it come from boat traffic...and lots of it.  There aren't that many resorts...and the few around are really hard travel for the average non savvy tourist. Since the 2010 Tsunami that destroyed the resort and the ensuing rebuild investment...the local laws have tried to limit 2 boats a day hooking up there...but with well respected captains and surf guides like ours...who do things right and have respect....they always seem to get a spot...and we did!!!   I was in the water at day break and enjoyed a few great chest to head high waves before the crowds set in from having 4 boats docked at the seemingly only surf break in the Indian Ocean.   The last remnants of the mon/tue swell were running out...and soon tide and inconsistency prevailed.  Tome to have a feed and rest sore shoulders and a toe!!! Yesterday or day before i dislocated my 2nd toe on the step ladder from the dingy skiff to the boat.  It didn't hurt too bad ...more just weird...as it wouldn't bend and hurt when tried. So an accidental forced bend and a pop...sent it back to a proper place i guess...as relief from pressure it seemed to feel better. All that was left was ugly bruising and a swollen joint  but it didn't affect my surfing or standing about the boat so I was fine  unless i stubbed it or it was forced to bend again!!! haha.  anyway.

The rest of the day was lazy and relaxing with contemplation of a sunet surf but it rained and the surfed dropped even more...so we put the lines out and fished instead... as we took off for out night anchor spot...mike caught another GT even bigger than the one outside of HT's on the boat ride down here...so fresh fish abounds again!

Pretty interesting kangaroo court this evening... standard from the view of wipe out of the day and wave of the day.  AJ got a barrel so he was a winner of the Wave O Day and Paul as usual was in the running for both wipeout and puss boots but only came away with wipe out of the day for yet another over the falls..but to his credit he does charge and sets up deeper than anyone else in the lineup no matter what. 

In a strange turn of events Mike was brought up on puss boots charges definitely more dick of the day by sneaking into my pack and graffiti-izing my Capt America trunks as they have come to be known.  These wonderful swim trunks are a patriotic symbol of american pride with white stars in a field of blue overlaid in bars of red on white stubbies.  A beautifully hand made pair from CA own chubbies board shorts...they have a bit of a cult following and definitely spark up pride among those whom it should.   They have been a topic of discussion each night since they are what i relax in the hot humid evenings with...giving my legs and especially my inner thighs a bit of a breather from the wet board shorts, wax and other common irritants that cause a painful rub rash to break out...but nothing a little wave hunter belly jelly or petrojelly wont cure with a little air drying TLC.   Having had these shorts each night and being the lone American i have been a target from the onset...but its been all gentle fun and rousting..mostly in the form of Team America the movie.  Definitely a cult classic from the makers of south park tv show.  So the term from the movie...America, Fuck Yeah... is used quite a bit in every setting and every discussion i am involved with... again all in fun and always good natured...but altogether sarcastically silly much like the movie.

well mike (a kiwi, recently naturalized citizen of the united states of Amurika) decides  to defile my shorts with the Team America slogan "F' Yeah" across the front!  I didn't notice until the boys decided to watch the movie and i broke out the shorts in jest...much to my surprise...i didn't know how or when this happened....or who.  I thought oh well...that is rather funny and i guess i cant wear these to the pool anymore!!! But then to have hobby come out and bring the truth of this act to light and name Bish as the culprit....well to say i was devastated was an understatement...a fellow amurikan citizen not only negligent but pre meditated in his actions to defile our countries stars and bars is devastating and a travesty of epic proportions only resolved by an all out assault and war!  

I let mike know he should be expecting as much and should take no comfort in knowing that he will not know when it is coming...but if and when it does and too what grand effect and  with whom and where, why and what means by any necessary measure it will most definitely air a feeling of Shock n' Awe to the highest magnitude... Fuck Yeah!

Thursday 5th day

Thursday 5

Swell dropping off considerably= 2 foot

Bintangs and HT's. skiff in the morning to Lances Left.

Day 5 began much like the one before. we rolled out from our night anchor and went to Bingtangs. Amazing to see the difference when the swell drops and it almost becomes more livelier.  I still didn't want to paddle like a mad man for what it was offering in hopes of saving my shoulder some wear and tear and hopefully having another afternoon at lances left... plus the weather was a bit crappy so i took time to eat, properly stretch and catch up on the blog.  I was kinda late to the skiff boat leaving and heading over to Lances Left and they had a pretty full load...so i figured i'd catch it later on a return trip.   But that never happened as the skiff understandably stayed with the surfers for safety reasons and by the time they got back we already had lunch and were heading back to HT's or lances right for the afternoon.

i was bummed about that because i finally started getting in a groove there and wanted to progress from that point however the extra rest did some massive good...along with a solid sleep and no back spasms i haven't felt this good since days before the trip started. As we pull up to HT's it is also much more tame than yesterday but set waves would produce an occasional comparison.  Regardless the sun was shining and it was beautiful out so i made the best of it and to get some paddling in and hopefully a solid ride.  It really didn't manifest itself as it just kept getting more and more crowded which makes it that much harder to maneuver for waves and stay out of harm's way in another.  So i didn't want to push my luck either as Hobby had recently been washed up on the dry reef and just came away with a couple serious board dings.  I headed back in with my shoulder feeling good and ready to enjoy the rest of the day with the others.

It was magnificent weather and scenery...spirits were high and as we pulled away from Lances we caught a GT tuna cruising along...so the second fish snagged and spirits even higher.

held kangaroo court a bit more earlier so puss boots could be used more in fetching everyone beers when requested.  so even more evolution of the award has happened and no way to tell where it might end.

Dom got puss boots dick of the day for dropping in on everyone and their mother at every spot... for each one he would give some solstice to the receiver of a reef meeting with "sorry mate i owe you one" effectively admitting his guiltiness.

Wave of the day was Hobby as he got a sweet barrel at HT's and didn't seem to mind his board getting wrecked for the second straight day.   Yesterday his complete leash plug popped out while fighting lances white wash.

Wipe out of the day was Glen for exploding lip and sit down at HT's with some good photographic evidence by Joey.

We headed south and will be motoring into Macaronis sometime tonight. we'll anchor up behind the island and wander out super early.  ok cheers !

wednesday 4

Wednesday 4

Time seems to really be going by now...one spot to the next and the group is settling in on getting to know each other and having fun.

At first light we are the first boat at HT's or Lances Right...and it is FIRING.  THis right hander is the first of the trip which has all the regular footers stoked and frothing at the mouth to get out there. Me on the other knew this wasn't the best conditions to work on my backside improvements since I am a Goofy ( right foot forward) and we have only had lefts up to this point.  This  swell and wind conditions are a sight to see and the best of the young trip...just in amazement right now. Im sure the pictures don't do it justice nor do the depict the amphitheater of nobbies (reef) that awaits each wipe out or poor decision not to exit the wave at the right time....as is each point break that takes a swell heading in a different direction and bends it perpendicular in towards the shore... the half moon reef exposed is different in all spots but the result is all the same.  Big Paul sat it out with me so we had some laughs and were all to happy to be dry on this one. Lots of good drop in snakes with photographic evidence would provide a lively court this evening...but also just a lively group excited to have caught this legendary spot at perfect conditions.  As it were we pick up anchor and let others have a go at it...as the channel and great viewing spot of this peeling beast is one of the best setups in the Mentawai...but cramped and crowed with 4 boats sitting in upon it.  El Captitan does some magician like maneuvering to spin us out of there and we are on our way to check out Bingtangs....a supposedly more water and mellow spot.   However, upon arrival a thick and hollow wave presents itself. Joey is excited while everyone else is exhausted from the mornings adventures at HT's.  I decided to paddle out with Joey if nothing more than to watch... again a right handed break here is supposed to produce a nice spinning barrels for one to make a drop and enter and exit a tube with a good experience.  However with too much swell on it and the amount of paddle required to stay in the right spot...this again is not a spot for me.  Joey quickly pulls in and gets slotted in a nice tube.  Its an elevator drop followed by a skillful bottom   turn into crouch rail grab barrel ride all in the matter of a few seconds.

Ridiculous doesn't seem to properly explain this wave right now.   Imagine  a smaller head high version of the "the right" down in Australia combined with Waimai shore break.   The thickness of the wave is developed by a swell being sucked into a small table top ledge of a reef on a point of an island.  There's lots of deep water...but because of this sucking of water to draw the wave in....you see the reef clearly in all its formable nature even though you aren't in danger of hitting the reef....because when all that water breaks it some how fills the void but surrounds you and puts you into a massive spin cycle.   So the solution is to make every drop and exit out the backside.  Haha easy enough... uh yeah not... I sit atop my board a couple stories above the back of the break and watch....which is gnarly enough... its just like no other place I've seen...the dynamics of the spot and how the wave is produced is truly awe inspiring.  A couple other people come out and try their hand really to no avail.... then we all just laughed and ate lunch as we headed over to legendary spot number 2....Lances Left.   

We enjoyed cheese burgers in paradise 

and then went out for a legendary session in 4 to 5 foot indo surf.   UNBELIEVABLE on all accounts and the left handed wave was in a consistent spot and fun for everyone...lots of power and speed and deep water provided a lot of waves to catch and charge with a bit of wreck less abandonment that had not been available or on display at other spots.   Tons of great wave riding and funny wipeouts by all had smiles around as another storm approached and the ensuing sunset capped of a legendary day both by Joey putting in greats spots with great timing and us beeing able to see these famous spots at their best!!   Spirits were super high to say the least.

A great kangaroo court produced another tradition of the 3 winners shotgunning a beer at its conclusion :

Puss boots dick of the day.. Hobby for his jettison snakes and drop ins on everyone! 

Wave of the Day.. Joey at Bingangs...  just in a word... sick!

Wipe out of the day... AJ at Bingtangs... but really for following it up from yesterdays wipeout and another huge one at a formidable break has him easily wearing the hat.

Late night storm hits and lots of rain and wind has us looking for a calm spot to drop anchor.

tuesday 3rd day

Tuesday 3

We were up early at scarecrows and on the spot before day break so all 10 of us were out in the water and having a good go at it, wave height and power was much more substantial.  There was clouds and rain which made for glass conditions as well.  It was super fun seeing all the boys get rides and having a couple myself.  A couple more boats showed up as well as some long taxi boats from the nearby resort/bunglows and pretty soon it was super crowded. The sun came out and got pretty hot as well.  A couple good wipeouts by a few and lots of paddling and surfing in a 3 hours session had everyone pretty tired.  So Joey wanted to escape the crowds and do some maneuvering away from other boats that were in the middle to end of there charter time....thus setting us up for a week or so of cruising and surfing spots to ourselves that was the idea any way.   As we left out of Scarecrows we went to check on Telescopes just north.  The wind was bad and not much working in the form of a swell / direction.  So just a brief stop there as we wanted make an anchor spot to hit HT's (hollow trees or Lances Right)  in the morning...because of the upcoming storm  Joey was banking on that area to the north beeing the call.   The storm hit and a really rough ride ensued...we backtracked a little to get on the east side of the island and make it easier...but really choppy and lots of Listing!!!  We were all resided to the bar inside watching surf videos and waiting out the storm.  By the time we reached our anchor spot a nice bay about half an hour ride south of HT's the storm had finally subsided enough for us to enjoy the outside and get out of the cramped cabin..besides everyone is happier milling about outside and enjoying the views, the big eating table, endless music selection and of course Bintangs!  The food was off the charts and just seems to get better and better!  I think Ruli  the chef had been doing his own thing of fusion  of foods long before its become so popular especially in the states.  

Speaking of which the rest of the staff have been kick ass!  They all have their own personality  Frankie big smiles is always singing and smiling and always ready for a joke or two.  Agus (agoose)  Is mellow and the laid back surfer of the group...always decked out in a flat lid and shades...he always nows about the breaks we are going to as well and gives us a more down to earth version than Joey...who is a Jetti on the surf spot knowledge but also in the waves...his ability has to be tempered with what is doable for some of us.  Then there's Agar (edgar + acre) he's usually the guy that ferries us out to the wave on the skiff or the dingy...they have 2 boats of differing size which is super nice and useful.

Then there is the quiet Mechanic (boss a slang in indo for the mech) Nonan rarely speaks and is generally always smoking while fixing things, fishing or just chilling. Then there's El Capitan...older gentlemen very quiet as well always on his cell phone checking his facebook page, hahaha. But his name escapes me...I am sure it comes up again.

As we had just started to pull into our anchor spot...we land a fish on one of the poles set up while trolling to our spot.  IT's a Wahoo...and we are super excited.  this will make for some good sashimi tonight as well as some good food tomorrow.

Kangaroo court:  Bish gets puss boots dick of the day for dropping in and snaking 2 people on the same wave...one was clearly snaking the other...but it didn't matter since Mike further dropped them both out and took the wave.  He didn't like the facts of the story..but it is what it is and hobby had seen it and repaid the story telling favor of the night before. As for the wipeout...no one was to see the incredible one I witnessed when AJ stepped on a land mine that went off as soon as he was going off the top of a lip...but it was unlike anything I had seen before. Then the wave Hulk Hogan Body slammed him on his back 6 feet in the air.  I waited to see if he was ok and for him to surface out of the impact zone and reef below.  Much to my astonishment he popped up and gave me a hoot when I gestured for him to see if help was needed.  All was well and we had a massive laugh talking about the particulars of what happened.  Still worst wipe out of the day went to Paul for the sheer hilarity of what happened and everyone seeing it.  He took a massive spill out of a free fall drop in on a first of a set wave, got hammered straight down in a summersault form and apparently had to wrestle with his rash guard as it was all over his head and helmet which he had just put on for the first time.  First off Paul is a big boy as well... imagine Keg Chest as a good description with a stout bock head set upon that ... and thus you have Paul's makeup.  Clearly shaken he had to take a break but only after paddling out of the impact zone.  he sat in the channel where no wave could get to him with a helmet on and no rashy... everyone was laughing now that he was fine.  Even funnier was hearing his account of the story.  Clearly he and Hobby will be banging it out for this award night after night both in story telling and just sheer stature as they are very big and stout men.

monday 2

Monday 2nd day

Brought another good morning and surf at 7 palms.  Heads were a little bingtang heavy but hearts were strong and waves still lagging a bit.  All in all a good start.  Plus a legendary over the falls move on Hobby's late drop in gave Mike (Bish) all the fuel he needed to push for his old pal to be wearing the hat this evening. Pretty inconsistent waves persisted so we enjoyed lunch and motored over back to the spot we had first entered...Scarecrows.  The wind and a bit more swell was making this spot work a bit more as you could tell a difference from our first foray into left point break.  However, there were 3 boats already there.  Again we pulled up and only a couple people had a surf...after a couple hours of watching.  That evening we would anchor nearby and enjoy another spectacular sunset and food.  We hoped to get in on an early surf at scarecrows as the swell seemed to be building.

The Dick of the Day and Puss Boots have quickly combined as one award...So AJ, for the non table suck....got to give away his slippers to Paul...who in the midst of the Kangaroo court was doing to much defending of another mans actions (John) when he had in fact dropped in on him...several thought there was something going on so Puss Boots for defending, and dick of the day for a drop in were spawned.  Congrats Paully!!

Sunday 1st day

Sunday  1

We had anchored up in a channel behind Siberut Island essentially the east side with protection from the south and westerly swells and wind. The first light brought us motoring through the inlet between a smaller island to the north were Telescopes, Icelands and.... other breaks are found. But immediately to the south as we passed was Suicides, as it is appropriately named since it is not surfable and would result in an early exit if so chosen.  Around the corner however was a good spot named Scarecrows...when on has a beautiful left hook that starts outside as south southwest swells bend in and the reef wraps it around to a hollow and more shallow inside section.  But the small swell and direction didn't allow or produce any of that for us on this first morning.  So after a lot of paddling and getting used to surfing in open ocean with no beach nearby...everyone was ready for breakfast.  After which our Surf Guide Joey thought it would be best to check out some other spots much more receptive to small swells and wind direction.   As we motored south the islaand landscape of palm trees, sand beaches and open water for miles on the horizon kept everyone giddy with anticipation as it was nice to just finally "be" here.  We arrived at our next destination  7 Palms which was a beautiful bay as well.... another boat was already there with 7-9 surfers already out so we took our time as is the unwritten code in this area not to swarm and swamp a place.  It is always good to keep your karma at a high level here as many areas of access can be tested and not only denied but down right made miserable if one isn't a proper keeper of such codes.   So we chilled and enjoyed the scenery....as a few members of the other boat started to shuffle in Joey would send a couple of our own out.  The waves looked decent enough and fun....which was definitely what our boat was looking for... and nice couple days of "warm up" waves.  Myself being low man on the talent totem pole  probably could use a whole week or two of this, but...as it goes you have to push your limits some to get better, and everyone on the boat was again on that same page.  We all eventually got out and got waves, but the inconsistency made for long waits in between sets and just more time for the Kiwi's to raz each and everyone.  Good fun was had and lots of laughter so all was well regardless of wave count.  As the other boat left to motor to another spot in search of waves....  Joey made the call to stay as the small week swell would not be providing any juice to other spots nearby and there just aren't that many small swell breaks here...so we might as well stay until things pick up.   That was fine by all of us.. and we enjoyed a PHENOMENAL dinner from Ruli the cook.   Not to mention one of the best sunsets of a lifetime!!!   YES that feeling of we are FINALLY here still abounded and so did the laughter, local bintang  beers and happiness that surrounds surf trips, good friends and good food.....and oh yea a kick aas boat  and crew in an exotic location.

Almost forgot..but nightly awards are given out...as is the tradition on a rugby tour where a team travels to another country for some test matches to tune up for a season or tournament....while on the road a Kangaroo Court is held to hand out awards based on the prior day/nights shenanigans...Dick of the Day is usually a bad move or being a general dumb ass in anyway.  Much like Ass of the week or any other fraternal group or team meet up to decide such nonsense that happens and whereby the art of story telling is every bit as important as the action itself.

Since I had noticed and swiped a pair of white hotel slippers from the HW in Padang...they were just too silly looking not to take, Mike, Dom and I decided that this would be a good place to start.  A Cinderella type of give away to someone that's being too much of a sally.  SO the first night for example AJ got the sandals for not table sucking (drinking the spillage off the table) a beer he had knocked over.  He was worried about the table dirtiness.  We were all worried more about wasting beer....naturally, that is the more understandable action...even though we had ordered 29 cases MORE of beer than what was allotted in our boat pension/price...which was 3 beers a day per person...almost an unimaginable amount among southern hemisphere drinkers like Kiwi's...and when in Rome, I am completely in agreement.

Other awards soon came about...Wipe out of the Day...which garnered a outback looking type hat.  Wave of the day... no physical award, just the recognition from your compatriots.

So the winners for the first day were   AJ- puss boots; Paul - dick of the day honors for dropping in on someone and taking the wave all the while not in the position to have done so....no wave of the day or wipe out of day due to conditions.