Time seems to really be going by now...one spot to the next and the group is settling in on getting to know each other and having fun.
At first light we are the first boat at HT's or Lances Right...and it is FIRING. THis right hander is the first of the trip which has all the regular footers stoked and frothing at the mouth to get out there. Me on the other knew this wasn't the best conditions to work on my backside improvements since I am a Goofy ( right foot forward) and we have only had lefts up to this point. This swell and wind conditions are a sight to see and the best of the young trip...just in amazement right now. Im sure the pictures don't do it justice nor do the depict the amphitheater of nobbies (reef) that awaits each wipe out or poor decision not to exit the wave at the right time....as is each point break that takes a swell heading in a different direction and bends it perpendicular in towards the shore... the half moon reef exposed is different in all spots but the result is all the same. Big Paul sat it out with me so we had some laughs and were all to happy to be dry on this one. Lots of good drop in snakes with photographic evidence would provide a lively court this evening...but also just a lively group excited to have caught this legendary spot at perfect conditions. As it were we pick up anchor and let others have a go at it...as the channel and great viewing spot of this peeling beast is one of the best setups in the Mentawai...but cramped and crowed with 4 boats sitting in upon it. El Captitan does some magician like maneuvering to spin us out of there and we are on our way to check out Bingtangs....a supposedly more water and mellow spot. However, upon arrival a thick and hollow wave presents itself. Joey is excited while everyone else is exhausted from the mornings adventures at HT's. I decided to paddle out with Joey if nothing more than to watch... again a right handed break here is supposed to produce a nice spinning barrels for one to make a drop and enter and exit a tube with a good experience. However with too much swell on it and the amount of paddle required to stay in the right spot...this again is not a spot for me. Joey quickly pulls in and gets slotted in a nice tube. Its an elevator drop followed by a skillful bottom turn into crouch rail grab barrel ride all in the matter of a few seconds.
Ridiculous doesn't seem to properly explain this wave right now. Imagine a smaller head high version of the "the right" down in Australia combined with Waimai shore break. The thickness of the wave is developed by a swell being sucked into a small table top ledge of a reef on a point of an island. There's lots of deep water...but because of this sucking of water to draw the wave in....you see the reef clearly in all its formable nature even though you aren't in danger of hitting the reef....because when all that water breaks it some how fills the void but surrounds you and puts you into a massive spin cycle. So the solution is to make every drop and exit out the backside. Haha easy enough... uh yeah not... I sit atop my board a couple stories above the back of the break and watch....which is gnarly enough... its just like no other place I've seen...the dynamics of the spot and how the wave is produced is truly awe inspiring. A couple other people come out and try their hand really to no avail.... then we all just laughed and ate lunch as we headed over to legendary spot number 2....Lances Left.
We enjoyed cheese burgers in paradise
and then went out for a legendary session in 4 to 5 foot indo surf. UNBELIEVABLE on all accounts and the left handed wave was in a consistent spot and fun for everyone...lots of power and speed and deep water provided a lot of waves to catch and charge with a bit of wreck less abandonment that had not been available or on display at other spots. Tons of great wave riding and funny wipeouts by all had smiles around as another storm approached and the ensuing sunset capped of a legendary day both by Joey putting in greats spots with great timing and us beeing able to see these famous spots at their best!! Spirits were super high to say the least.
A great kangaroo court produced another tradition of the 3 winners shotgunning a beer at its conclusion :
Puss boots dick of the day.. Hobby for his jettison snakes and drop ins on everyone!
Wave of the Day.. Joey at Bingangs... just in a word... sick!
Wipe out of the day... AJ at Bingtangs... but really for following it up from yesterdays wipeout and another huge one at a formidable break has him easily wearing the hat.
Late night storm hits and lots of rain and wind has us looking for a calm spot to drop anchor.
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