A term used back in the early days of surfing, it describes the action of riding a wave while keeping the board in front of the crumbling whitewater and the breaking wave behind you. It's a great analogy for life and how we operate during its challenges or respond after its wipeouts. I hope you enjoy my thoughts, stories and reflections for a lifetime of memories that pay respect and gratitude to my family, friends and situations that have made all of this possible.
Saturday, August 8, 2015
all the boys have met up and we have a solid crew...all kiwis one brit and me the lone american...in a word solid!!! Not much time to write now will try and post from my notes later on...so may be a couple weeks until i can post them as i will be out on the boat in the indian ocean!!! The mentawai islands await and everyone is super fired up. Its great to meet my kiwi friends Mike buddies from high school and a good mate from the raleigh rugby days... both dominic and i fit in just fine even being the odd balls out with the key words being balls out!!! good kiwi humor is a must and just awesome. definitely reliving some beautiful highlights from the 2011 world cup...and one of the most beautifully awesome countries in the world. The stoke among the group is indescribable.
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